Mokupea Report

0600 position 12-39N 157-07W. Day's run 158 miles.

Wind is still out of the ENE and varies up and down from 12 knots. Things
are so steady that I don't think either one of us has had to go forward or
adjust anything in the last 24 hours. We have picked up a little chop
from the South though, which is making the boat ride a bit like a bronco
as we charge in that direction. The chop is not big enough to make us
pound, but the smooth ride is gone and there is now water on deck. This
is more typical Pacific Ocean conditions. We are dry as a bone below and
in the cockpit though. Rocky says it's the driest boat he's ever been on.
It is for me too.

We saw our first sign of humanity with the lights of a ship crossing ahead
of us at 0100. My guess is a merchant vessel on its way from Asia to the
Panama Canal.

Yesterday we fished with Randy Reed's lures, and today we fished with Fred
Morelli's lures. No luck with either. Fish must be on Spring Break. We
did have a tropic bird stop by for a visit during the afternoon and he
took a brief interest in the lures.

It is nice to break up the monotony of a long trip like this one to Tonga
with some stops along the way. Our first possible stopping point is in
the Line Islands, about 1000 miles South of Hawaii and near the equator.
There are decent anchorages in that group at Palmyra, Fanning, and
Christmas. Christmas is the only one that I haven't been to, and I don't
want to stop at the other two, so Christmas it is!

I explained in an earlier post why Palmyra was out; It's just too much
trouble with all the restrictions. I've sailed to Fanning twice before.
The anchorage just inside the lagoon entrance is in calm water and is
relatively safe, but the tide rips in and out at up to 4 knots so you'd
better have your anchor well set. The thing I remember most about Fanning
though is that the population was half Catholic and half Protestant, and
the two groups didn't get along.

Copra harvesting was one of the few sources of income for Fanning
islanders during our visit there 28 years ago. Most of the population
lived in the village on the South side of the lagoon entrance pass, and
most of the copra was harvested from the motu on the North side of the
pass. This necessitated daily trips back and forth for the workers. We
noticed two boats used for transport though instead of one and asked why.
"Protestant boat and Catholic boat", we were told, and neither group would
be caught dead on the other's boat. There was also a drought going on
while we were there, and the less affluent Protestants had to beg water
from the Catholics. It was quite a scandal with the shamed Protestants
and gloating Catholics. How surreal that Western religion could cause
such strife in what was otherwise an idyllic tropical paradise.