7 September - Chicken Skin

0600 position 17-30S 149-30W. At anchor in 15 feet , black sand bottom,
Point Venus, Tahiti

Captain Cook needed to know the exact time to determine his position and
fulfill his mission of mapping the Pacific. Unfortunately, his
chronometer was a crude early version that needed periodic recalibration.
One method of recalibration was to observe the transit of Venus as it
passes between the sun and the earth, an infrequent occurrence. Captain
Cook had the opportunity to observe the transit of Venus here in Tahiti in
1769, and he set up his observation camp on the peninsula just in front of
where we are anchored. Now named Point Venus in honor that historical
event, it is a beautiful protected anchorage just four miles east of
downtown Papeete. We are sharing it with four other yachts, but there is
room for four hundred.

I have read a lot about Captain Cook's voyages, and get chicken skin
thinking about what he accomplished. Sailing a leaky old wooden boat that
could barely sail to windward, he fulfilled his mission on three voyages
to the Pacific. Ranging from the Antarctic to the Arctic, without an
engine, not knowing what was in front of him, with lousy anchor gear….
The contrast to modern cruising is amazing. We know where we are at all
times within a couple of feet, we know what's out there, we know the
weather, we have engines, stout fiberglass boats, good ground tackle, and
can call for help if we need it anywhere and anytime. Ocean cruising is
now remarkably safe if you use common sense.

We had a great sail yesterday from Tahiti Iti. We motor sailed for three
miles inside the barrier reef to the next opening, Vaionifa Pass, where we
went back out in the ocean for our thirty mile sail to Point Venus. Down
wind all the way with the wind in the low teens, we saw dolphin, humpback
whales, and even a fish before he struck one of our lures. Unfortunately
the fish didn't stay on the hook so it was spagetti for dinner.

Matt and I swam ashore and went for a stroll after we anchored at 3PM. We
are definitely back in civilization. Since it was Saturday the beach was
packed with city folk relaxing on the weekend. We are bypassing Papeete
today and heading directly for Moorea, which we can see in the distance.
I know that there are stores in Cook's Bay there, so that's where we are
heading first. We haven't been able to buy fresh fruit and vegis since
Tonga, and I am worried about getting scurvy.