14 October - Trouble in Paradise

0600 position 16-31S 151-46W. At anchor in 45', sand bottom, In the lee
of Toopua Island in the Bora Lagoon

Sunday was spent doing boat projects anchored in the lee of the Four
Seasons Resort. I cleaned the bottom, repaired my spinnaker pole,
inventoried our remaining food supplies, and did some engine maintenance.
It was basically a slow relaxing day though, and it included an afternoon
nap.

Monday was the opposite, and we got a lot done. After breakfast I pulled
the anchor and sailed into Vaitape, arriving about 10AM. As I powered
into the anchorage a crew member on a very nice eighty foot sloop waved me
down so I stopped alongside to speak with him. He told me that their boat
had been broken into and ransacked the night before while the crew was out
to dinner for two hours. The moon didn't rise until about 9PM, so the
thieves had a couple of hours of darkness to work with. They were
clearly watching the boat, and struck while the crew was away for a short
period of time. Everything that was portable and of value was taken
including all of the skippers clothing.

For years now yachting publications and blogs have warned about dinghy and
engine thefts in Papeete, Moorea, and Bora Bora, but this is the first
break in that I've heard of. The thieves are clearly getting more brazen,
and it doesn't sound like it is safe to moor off of Vaitape anymore.

With that in mind I decided to try to get all of my business done in one
day so I wouldn't have to spend the night there. My first trip ashore was
to go to the post office and buy a phone card to take care of some
stateside business. Air time on a pay phone is cheaper than the sat
phone. Then I checked out the logistics of dinghying in to the
supermarket and laundromat. I filled my backpack with provisions and
headed back to the boat.

My second trip ashore was to the laundromat to wash sheets and towels to
get ready for Kendra's visit. My third trip was to do more shopping,
including exchanging my empty Hinano carton for a full one. On each of
my trips I tried to call Lori at the pay phone, but I could never get
through. My fourth trip was to get some fresh tomatoes from a street
vendor (the supermarket didn't have any) and to make a final try to call
Lori. No luck on the call, but I did get the tomatoes.

I returned to the boat, hung the laundry to dry, stowed all of my
acquisitions, and had a beer. Then I made the beds, folded the remaining
laundry, pulled the anchor, and moved to the lee of Toopua Island which
I'm hoping will be safer than off of Vaitape.

Once anchored behind Toopua I rigged a block and tackle to allow me to
hoist the dinghy aboard by myself. There's no way I'm leaving it in the
water anymore in Bora Bora. Then a bath off of the stern just before
sunset and it was time for dinner.

I'm planning to stay here until the wind is right for the crossing to
Raiatea to meet Kendra, perhaps Wednesday or Thursday.