27 October - Western Arm, Whangaroa Harbor

1400 position 35 00.5S 173 43.8E, at anchor in 20 feet

We dinghied ashore yesterday after lunch to go for a hike on Moturua Island. We found beautifully manicured trails that took us across the top of the 500 foot high island to a beach on the exposed ocean side. The views were spectacular. Kana looked but didn't find any mussels which are supposed to be plentiful along the island's shoreline. We found a dead penguin on the beach, an unfortunate first sighting of these birds, and I found what I believe is the world's smallest blowing conch. No, it doesn't sound very impressive but I'm keeping it anyway. We also found some hilltop pillboxes from WW2.

Last night after dinner we finished watching "Mars Attacks", a cinema classic that we started watching the night before we departed Fiji.

At first light this morning we departed for Whangaroa, 30 miles to the north. We had to motor sail most of the way in light headwinds, but the wind freed and increased as the day wore on and we were able to sail the final few miles into Whangaroa.

Halfway through the passage we caught two eight pound fish. Their species remains a matter of debate among the crew, but I think they are rainbow runners. We will eat them tonight likely not knowing with certainty what they are.

The entry into Whangaroa Harbor is a 200 yard wide gap between 500 foot high cliffs. Once through the entrance, the harbor opens up into a labyrinth of fiords that twist and turn for miles into the island's interior. We anchored in the "Western Arm" of the harbor in Rere Bay at 130PM on Simon's recommendation. It is spectacularly beautiful with high cliffs surrounding us. It almost feels like we are in a river canyon. There are a couple of other boats at anchor at this end of the harbor, but it feels deserted here in the western arm.

Have I mentioned how well we are eating here aboard the good ship Jambalaya? Gail is putting together some real feasts in the ship's basic galley. Last night we had baked Mexican chicken. This morning it was egg McMuffins. Lunch was Vietnamese pho with chocolate for desert. Clay says he doesn't like to eat at restaurants, because he always eats better at home. None of us can understand why he doesn't weigh 300 pounds.