Life on the Coconut Milk Run

0800 Position 19-23S 164-40W. Days run 156 miles. 290 miles from Niue

We could see the front approaching from the west yesterday just after sunrise. The clear skies had slowly turned cloudy and then a north-south wall of cloud with rain below it marched in. The boat got a much needed rinse as the front rolled over us and our easterly breeze lightened and shifted to the south. It rained off and on for a few hours, and then the skies started to clear as the weather moved on to the east behind us.

By mid-afternoon we were ghosting along in smooth seas and clear skies. The gribs showed that a high pressure area would follow eighteen hours behind the front and pass right over us. The winds would stay light and slowly do a full circle shifting from south to east to north to west before finally settling in the south again thirty six hours later.

The winds slowly backed, and at midnight they were out of the east. This was not a good direction because we were headed west, dead down wind. To keep the speed up over six knots we had to head forty five degrees off course. Normally we would have powered with the speed toward our destination so low, but it was crystal clear, there was no moon, and the seas were flat. The Milky Way was spectacular above us. How could anybody be in a hurry in conditions like that? We left the engine off and enjoyed the evening.

Last night for dinner Doc cooked us the best curry dish I've ever tasted. He had intended to make Lamb curry using the leftovers from the night before, but after adding carrots, white turnips, cauliflower and coconut milk to the cooked onion, garlic and curry sauce, he decided that the meat wouldn't help and we went vegetarian. Good decision.

I am sharing watches with both Piers and Doc. During the day we do our own thing, but at night the guy on standby usually keeps the guy on watch company in the cockpit, and I have heard some great stories.

Piers has been a journalist for forty nine years. He has had amazing experiences, has a remarkable memory, and knows how to tell a tale. That makes for a great watch mate. Doc, a retired radiologist who has sailed all over the world and in the America's Cup finals, also tells a great story. Night watches are not boring aboard the good ship Van Diemen.

This morning the wind continued to back towards the north and head us, and as I write this we are almost back down on course headed for Niue, 290 miles away.

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