Life Past the End of the Road

0800 Position 17-49S 149-08W. At anchor under Mt. Puatava, Tahiti Iti

Vaitepiha Valley, a steep sided gorge that looks like it cuts Tahiti Iti in half, emptied into Tautira Bay where we were anchored. We could see waterfalls at the back of the valley from our anchorage, and one of our cruising guides said that the valley had a great eight kilometer hike. So after breakfast we all piled in the dinghy and went ashore to give it a go.

We walked for a couple of hours next to a river, winding our way back until we couldn't tell that we were on a little island in the middle of the ocean. Our decision on a turn around point was made for us when we encountered a chain across the road with signs in French and Tahitian that we couldn't read but seemed to indicate that we might be cooked and eaten if we continued.

The wind had died off completely, and it was hot hiking back in the hills. Hinano seemed like a good rehydration vehicle once we got back to the boat.

After lunch we pulled the hook and powered around the corner to the eastern end of Tahiti Iti. This end of the island is fully protected by a barrier reef, but there are two good channels through it. We passed through the reef and entered the lagoon through Vaionifa Pass, the northernmost entrance. Once inside we powered south in the lagoon with 3,000 foot cliffs on one side and the reef on the other.

We had intended to anchor in a favorite spot of mine just south of Teaianui Pass, the southern entrance channel. I had anchored there on both my thirty three and thirty five foot boats. I recall the channel just to the north of the anchorage as being challenging, but I didn't have any problems getting through. Just before we got there though, a small power boat came along side and the skipper gestured to us that the pass was not suitable for a boat as large as Van Diemen. We decided to turn around and anchor instead in a large open area between the reef and mountain. Just as well. In the spot we were headed for we'd have to anchor close to shore and in the calm conditions we'd probably suffer mosquitoes on the boat.

In the flat calm of the late afternoon we busted out the stand up paddle boards and explored the coast line. The local dogs don't get excited about passing power boats, but they are apparently not used to seeing haoles on SUPs. Every pier we passed had a couple of canines on it barking hysterically.

It started raining after dinner, and poured off and on all night long. It was a good opportunity to have a movie night, so we all chuckled over "A Fish Called Wanda" that I had stored on my laptop. We enjoyed a mosquito free evening.

It must be some kind of a holiday or vacation period, because we haven't seen the "school bus" come by this morning. I'm disappointed. I wanted the guys to see it. On weekday mornings and afternoons a large power skiff built to carry a couple dozen people drives up and down the lagoon ferrying kids to and from school.

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