Scotland Island

0800 position 33-38S 151-17E. On a mooring off of Zappa and Marie's house, Scotland Island, Broken Bay, New South Wales, Australia

Van Diemen had a great day yesterday. at 8AM we entered the channel into Newcastle Harbor and were tied to the Australian Border Force buoy at 830 to await instructions. We were directed to move to the yacht marina at 930 and as soon as we arrived there three uniformed Border Force personnel came aboard to check us in. This was by far the most thorough inspection Van Diemen has been through in the many countries we've visited on this voyage. They even took a hard look at my cholesterol medication to make sure it was legitimate. Zappa's presence aboard was not an issue. He had, in fact, spoken to one of the individuals inspecting the boat and a couple of others in their office before he flew to Lord Howe Island. After Border Force was done the Bio-Security team had a turn. We tried, but we couldn't finish eating all of the prohibited food so they took it. They left with a bag of onions, sweet potatoes, garlic, and some fruit. We did a good job of getting to the meat before they did. All the formalities were finished by 11AM. Rob still had to wander up to the Border Force office to sign something, but we were legal.

We spent the next couple of hours taking advantage of being dockside by hosing the boat down, filling the water tanks, cleaning things up, and communicating with home. The rest of the crews' phones worked so they could check email and place phone calls. I still have to buy an Australian SIM card for my phone. I did get through to Lori on the sat phone though. Zappa wandered up the dock and found a seafood retailer where he bought a couple of kilos of fresh shrimp, sauce, and bread for our lunch.

Rob returned at 1PM, and we were underway shortly thereafter for Pittwater. The afternoon thermal had increased the northeasterly breeze to twenty plus knots, and with two reefs in the mainsail, a full jib, and a knot plus of the East Australian Current behind us we zipped down to Broken Bay. About half way there I was standing in the cockpit looking to windward and a baby humpback whale breached clear of the water just forty feet away from Van Diemen. He continued to breach as we left him behind. I have no idea where mama was. We got a couple of other whale breaching shows before we entered Broken Bay. It was the most marine mammal activity we've seen on this voyage.

The coast of New South Wales is not particularly welcoming. Rugged high headlands are separated by sand beaches in front of brush covered hills. As we sailed south it didn't look like a place you'd find a sheltered paradise. Zappa pointed out the entrance to Broken Bay, and we jybed into the coast to sail between two high headlands, one with a large lighthouse on it. As we headed inland the seas got calmer and the land got greener. A left turn past the southern headland and we were in a calm submerged former river valley. Further on the number of homes along the shore and moored boats in the sheltered estuaries increased. We worked our way in about five miles from the bay's entrance, zigging and zagging left and right as we followed the waterway to come upon Scotland Island where Zappa and Marie live. We picked up one of Zappa's moorings right in front of his house just as the sun was setting. His son Matt came out in a small motor boat and picked us up to take us in to the house.

Zappa and Marie have built a beautiful waterfront home nestled among the trees overlooking the bay. The house was built for entertaining, and that's what they did last night. We had a great time enjoying grilled steaks, rum cocktails, and too much wine. Zappa shuttled us back to Van Diemen about midnight.... I think....

This morning at sunrise I stumbled out of my bunk and staggered back to the swim step to relieve myself. My mind was foggy from too much rum and too little sleep. The rest of the crew was still asleep and I was trying to be quiet. As I was standing there, unit in hand, a small motor boat came up astern of Van Diemen. "Gidday Noodle! Do you want to go for a coffee?" It was Piers Akerman, a Van Diemen crew member who was aboard for the portion of the voyage from Tahiti to Niue. Piers lives on an arm of the harbor and his house, like Zappa and Marie's and the other residents of Scotland Island, is accessible only by boat. He was going in to pick up his morning newspapers, a daily ritual. I jumped aboard and we zipped up the harbor to a waterfront shop/cafe where Piers purchased three newspapers and a coffee for each of us. We sat down and caught up on each others' lives since we were last together more than two months ago. It was great to see him! The rest of the Van Diemen crew was just beginning to stir as he dropped me off on his way home.

At sunrise this morning it was drizzling, and as I write this it is pouring. A southerly front came through during the night and it looks like rain for the next day or so. We just beat this weather system in to Broken Bay, and it looks like our next opportunity to head south won't come for five days or so. This is a pretty nice place to be stuck though. I can't believe how lucky were were with weather all the way here from New Caledonia. I'd rather be lucky than good....

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