Sunday, 330PM. At anchor in Kawakiu Iki, Molokai
The mighty Moku pe'a charged up around Molokai's southeast shore with sheets just eased in the Pailolo Channel. We had our second strike of the day, but alas it too didn't hook up. We passed between Mokuho'oniki Rock and Molokai, and bore away off Cape Halawa. Michael made us bacon and avocado sandwiches using the bread he had baked earlier in the day. After lunch we poled out the jib and sped down the north shore for the second time.
Halfway down the coast we were joined by a couple of large dolphin. They stayed with us for a long time, surfing on the swells next to us and inspecting our lures. Most interesting was when we would scare a flying fish into the air. The dolphin would take off after the glider and follow it for fifty yards before returning to their escort position on Moku pea'a's quarter. Our flyers all got away, but they would have been lunch had they muffed the takeoff.
I had not been into Waikolu since Palani Ashford, Dave Schaefer, and I swam into the bay forty seven years ago. We had spent three days hiking and swimming the twelve miles from Halawa Valley on the east end of the island, and still had five miles of walking remaining to cross the Kalaupapa Peninsula and climb the switchback trail to the top of the cliffs. It was one of the longest hardest days of my life. Good times!
The anchorage in Waikolu is probably the best and most protected on Molokai's north coast. The views are spectacular, but there aren't any sea caves or waterfalls like you find in Keawanui. Michael and I dinghied ashore and hiked around the boulder beach for a while. Fortunately, we had a steady thermal land breeze blowing all night that held our stern facing the small wrap around wind chop so there wasn't any rocking and rolling. No stern anchor necessary.
This morning we decided that the north shore needed more exploring, so up came the anchor and we powered three miles east to Pelekunu Valley. I had never been in the bay there before, so we felt our way in and anchored in sand at the southeast corner of the inlet off a small waterfall at 830AM. Pelekunu is not quite as protected as Waikolu, but it would be a fine anchorage when there is no swell running. The surf breaking on the beach looked a bit more challenging than our adventure appetites were up to. We opted to stay on the boat, read our books, and enjoy "Morning Tea", a Commonweath custom Michael practices and that I am quickly getting used to. Our tea was accompanied by chocolate chip biscuits that Michael baked, of course.
We departed Pelekunu at 1030 and headed west wing and wing down the Molokai coast. We caught another kawakawa in the same spot we got one a few days ago. Maybe it was the same one? We let him go, again.
We had another strike as well, but generally fishing has sucked. We've been changing out our lures every day and will do so again tomorrow.
Moku pe'a's destination was Kawakiu, a small bay tucked under Ilio Point on the northwest corner of Molokai. When we got there we found a dozen trucks parked above the beach, a couple of power boats at anchor, and lots of people milling around. Too much civilization for Moku pe'a's motley crew, so we anchored instead in the small inlet 1/4 mile to the west. I'll call it Kawakiu Iki. We have it all to ourselves and it is a nice calm spot.
Tomorrow marks the final chapter of this summer's cruise as we sail home to Kaneohe. Pray for fish.
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