Wednesday, June 5, 2019

These Things Happen....

Sorry no blog yesterday.  We were in Haena yesterday and circumstances forced us to depart early and head for Nualolo.  We were sailing under full mainsail only, experienced a swirly gust on the Na Pali coast, accidentally jybed, and broke the boom right in the middle.

We powered back to Hanalei arriving just as it got dark last night.  Moku pe'a is safely anchored right where she was a day ago.

Mitch Haynie is connecting us with the aluminum fabrication experts here on Kauai and we are working to get the boom fixed as quickly as we can.
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Monday, June 3, 2019

Hanalei Bay

3PM.  At anchor in 22 feet, sand bottom, Hanalei Bay.

There's not much better than a lazy day relaxing in Hanalei Bay.

This is a beautiful spot, and we have had a very pleasant day and a half at anchor here.

Moku pe'a's dinghy engine had been acting up when we ran it on the new dinghy a week ago, so I was nervous about getting David ashore in all of the wind yesterday afternoon.  Both the weather and dinghy cooperated though.  The breeze backed off and the engine ran like a clock.  

We got David ashore to meet Charles at 5PM, and they were off to dinner.  David spent the night at Charles' condo and the two of them played golf this morning before David's flight back to Honolulu.  David and I have been getting in trouble together since the first grade.  It is always fun to spend time with him.

It was grilled rack of lamb and a salad aboard the good ship Moku pe'a last night.  A full tummy and calm anchorage made for relaxed sleeping, and the crew awoke this morning with renewed vigor.

After breakfast we dinghied ashore and hiked into downtown Hanalei to do some shopping.  Michael decided it was a pizza baking day and he needed some specialty ingredients.

We did some boat chores after lunch and Michael was cooking pizza when we heard someone knocking on the hull.  It was Mitch Haynie, Lori's Punahou classmate who lives here in Hanalei, out for a swim with Eric, a parapalegic Mitch is teaching to surf.  We had a quick visit before they swam back to shore.  

Lori and I had a great day sail and dinner with Mitch and his wife Jenna in Moorea when we were there on Moku pe'a in 2014.  Mitch and Jenna have invited Michael and I over for dinner at their home tonight and we are looking forward to it.




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Sunday, June 2, 2019

Crossing to Kauai

3PM.  At anchor in 22 feet, sand bottom, Hanalei Bay.


Lori wasn't able to find a parking spot in busy Waimea Bay Beach Park, so she couldn't swim out to join us.  Kara finished skunking me at cribbage and then swam in to catch a ride home with Lori.


We pulled the hook, hoisted the mainsail, and drifted out of the bay at 6PM.  The wind filled in as we worked our way offshore, and with double reefed mainsail and single reefed jib, Moku pe'a sped along on a broad reach at about six knots.


At 9PM when we were about ten miles north of Oahu's Kaena Point the boys woke me from a nap to deal with some strange approaching lights from the south west.  It looked like a tug and barge, but we couldn't see any red and green side lights on the tug.  We were on a converging course, and when nothing changed after a few minutes we called him on the VHF radio.


No, he hadn't seen us.  We described our position and heading, shined lights on the sails, and he then saw us.  The tug "Navajo", with tow behind, altered course and passed just behind Moku pe'a.  It was a pretty close call in a normally deserted channel.  I suppose he was on his way to Seattle.


The wind in the channel wasn't much more than twenty knots, and reefed down Moku pe'a charged right along without overtaxing the autopilot.  There were swells from the north, northeast, and east which caused us to rock and roll and occasionally deposited some water on deck, but I've seen worse.  At least we were broad reaching, and at sunrise we poled out the jib for the run down Kauai's north shore to Hanalei.  We anchored at 9AM, had some breakfast, and all took naps.


The trade winds have really filled in as the day has progressed.  It is well over twenty knots in the gusts, and a boat behind us dragged his anchor forcing another cruiser to move.  The offender has since reanchored, and then continued to drag.  Looks like he needs to invest in some proper ground tackle.


I am a bit concerned about our ability to ferry David in to shore to meet a buddy, Charles Regan, this evening in all this wind.  I'm not sure our little dinghy and outboard are up to the task.  Charles took this photo of us from his Princeville condo as we sailed into the bay this morning.



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Saturday, June 1, 2019

The Adventure Begins!

230PM.  At anchor in Waimea Bay 21-38.5N 158-03.9W.


It was a great relief to finally get away on this trip.  For some reason the planning phase and anticipation was more difficult for me than previous voyages, including those to the South Pacific.  Perhaps it was due to the fact that Moku pe'a hasn't been on a long journey since 2014, and I'm out of practice on being in charge of preparations for this kind of adventure.  My fear is that it is old age creeping up, and I don't like it.


In any case we are on our way!  Michael and David both flew in on Thursday.  David went to his apartment in Waikiki and Michael came to stay at the brewery.  Michael, Lori and I provisioned on Friday and then we all went to Waikiki for a lovely dinner with David and his wife Josephine at the Outrigger Canoe Club.  We brought David home with us last night.  Kara walked over to the house this morning, and Lori prepared an excellent pre-voyage breakfast for the crew.


Moku pe'a got underway at 9AM, with a single reef in the main and full jib.  We sailed out the Kaneohe Bay Sampan Channel and turned left to head for Kahuku.  The wind increased, as expected, and by the time we got abeam of the Polynesian Cultural Center we had two reefs in the mainsail and a single reefed jib.


It was a bit bumpy rounding Kahuku, but we jybed without incident, screamed down past Sunset Beach, and entered Waimea accompanied by a school of spinner dolphin.


The hook went down at 2PM over a sandy spot at the east end of the bay, and we are now happily enjoying this peaceful anchorage.  The rest of the crew is swimming around the boat as I write this.


Lori will be here about 430PM and swim out to the boat for a visit before she ferries Kara home.    Michael, David, and I plan to pull the hook and depart for Kauai just before sunset.  The distance to Hanalei Bay is about ninety miles, more than Moku pe'a can sail in daylight hours.  An overnight sail is necessary to ensure we arrive there when the sun is high in the sky.




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Friday, May 24, 2019

Moku pe'a Gets Ready

I've been busy these past few years cruising in the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans on other peoples boats, but poor Moku pe'a hasn't stretched her legs on a long cruise since bringing us safely home from the South Pacific in late 2014.  That's about to change as she gets ready to cast off on an "Around the State" voyage on 1 June.

Tasmanian Michael Vaughan, a shipmate from Van Diemen's 2017 Transpacific voyage, will be aboard with me for the whole trip.  Dave Schaefer, who spent a week cruising on Moku pe'a in the Society Islands in 2014 will sail from our home port of Kaneohe to Hanalei Bay on Kauai.  My daughter Kara, who doublehanded Moku pe'a with me from Hawaii to Tahiti in 2011 will make the first day's hop to Waimea Bay on Oahu's north shore.

Moku pe'a can't complain of being neglected.  She takes Lori and I on sails down the bay, usually with guests aboard, at least weekly when I am in town.  She is pampered and maintained as well.  In late March we had her drydocked in Honolulu for her biennial cleaning and bottom painting.  Her bottom is as smooth as silk and she is ready to go.



I can feel Moku pe'a getting excited and tug at her dock lines as I proceed through the "Go To Sea" checklist.  The wind generator and cockpit weather cloths have been installed.  Tanks are full and the non-perishable provisions are filling up the lockers.  We are testing a new dinghy this weekend.  There's not much left to do except a trip to Costco next Friday for the fresh provisions.

This will be Moku pe'a's third trip "Around the State" following the route outlined in "Noodle's Notes on 50 Years of Sailing in the Hawaiian Islands", the cruising guide I published on-line a few years ago.  If you're interested in seeing our planned route, you can find it on page 63 of the cruising guide at noodlesnotes.com.

I hope to post daily blogs once we get underway, but my ability to do so will be dependent upon a satisfactory cell phone data connection.  I know we won't be able to connect from Niihau, during the three day sail from there to the Big Island, and on Molokai's north shore, but we should have coverage the rest of the time.



Saturday, December 22, 2018

Feliz Navidad from Mexico

Lori Lloyd and I are cruising in Mexico for a week with pals Tim Dick and Kim Le aboard Tim's new Lagoon 42 catamaran "Malolo".  This is a short trip that came up at the last minute, and I wasn't planning to blog, but we've already had too much to laugh about in two days to not share it.

Two weeks ago I got an email from Tim, "Do you want to do a week long goof cruise in Puerto Vallarta with us the week before Christmas?"  Goof cruise meant doing some sailing, but not really going anywhere outside of Banderas Bay, a twenty mile deep inlet on Mexico's west coast.  Going meant missing my daughter Kendra's thirtieth birthday "beer mile" party, but these opportunities to sail with friends in exotic locations don't come up every day, so we signed on and here we are.

We decided to spend our first full day provisioning, getting the boat ready, and then touring historic Puerto Vallarta.  We got the work done in the morning and then caught a water taxi about fifteen miles from our marina in Nuevo Vallarta to town.

Puerto Vallarta is clearly a tourist town with an equal split between Mexican and foreign tourists.  There is a waterfront promenade that reminded me of a cross between Key West, Olongapo in the Philippines, and Bourbon Street in New Orleans.  Street vendors sold hats, food, and tchotchkes.  Musicians, artists, and acrobats performed.  Hawkers tried to drag us into their establishments fronting the overcrowded waterfront mall.  Mixed in were guys in military fatigues toting loaded M-16s.  It was all very surreal and entertaining.  We walked the back streets, visited the cathedral, and were the sole visitors at the country's martime museum.  We ran out of gas just after sunset, and had dinner at a nice Italian restaurant there on the boardwalk.


After dinner we caught a cab back to our marina.  It was about a forty minute ride and our cabbie dropped us off at the entrance to the shopping center a quarter mile from the boat.  We got home feeling like we'd had a great day and got ready to go to bed early so we could get an early start on cruising this morning.

"Oh shit! My cell phone is gone," Tim exclaimed shortly after we returned to Malolo.  "I must have left it in the cab!"  A rapid heated discussion ensued on possible retrieval options.  Our technically savy crew members (Tim and Kim) determined that the iPhone "Find My Phone" feature could help us locate Tim's wayward device.  They did some magic on Kim's iPhone and up came a map showing the location of Tim's phone at what we thought was the spot where we were dropped off by the cab.

"Maybe the cabbie found the phone and came back!" Tim rushed off towards the shopping center using Kim's phone as a guide.  I followed him up a few minutes later and found him wandering around looking at Kim's phone screen.  The cabbie hadn't come back, and besides, the map showed Tim's phone in a different  location nearby.  We marched around following the map on Kim's phone, narrowed in on the spot shown on the map, and eventually found ourselves back aboard Malolo.  "The phone must be here aboard the boat!  Maybe I didn't lose it after all!"

Lots of digging through bags, pants pockets, and some thinking led the crew to the conclusion that not only was the phone not on Malolo, we weren't even tracking the phone.  The "Find my Phone" app apparently tracks all of your Apple devices, and we were, in fact, tracking Tim's MacBook, which was running happily on the salon table.

Our tech gurus punched some buttons and the map showed that Tim's phone was back in downtown Puerto Vallarta.  He and I jumped in a cab and sped off towards town.

We had a little bad luck in our choice of cabbies.  His transmission was on the bitter edge of complete failure, and every mile or so the gears would grind, he'd mutter some profanity in Spanish, and the cab would nearly come to a halt in the middle of the busy roadway before he'd get it to work again, temporarily.  We were out of the door on one of his many stops before his pleading convinced us to get back in.

The map showed that the phone was stationary in town during our entire forty minute taxi ride.  We closed in on the phone's location and pulled over.  Tim dashed off with his iPhone map in hand and searched for our first cab while I held the second cab, just in case.  After a few minutes I paid our guy off and let him go as Tim hadn't returned.

I found Tim wandering around looking in storefronts for shady characters.  "My phone just disappeared from the screen!  It must have been shut off!"  We suspected it was now a stolen phone, and whoever had it had seen Tim searching and shut it off.  After a few minutes he tried expanding the map to pick up a larger area and there it was again, the phone had moved about six blocks back close to where we had originally been picked up by our first cabbie!

Off we went on a run, dodging through tourists and locals, two tall skinny Americans in flip flops.  We felt like the Keystone Cops, two bumbling gringos following a dot on a map on an iPhone.  We ran up the waterfront mall past the street artists, hawkers, tourists, and acrobats.  We're not sure what would have happened if we'd run into the armed military guys.  We found our cabbie mingling with his pals, waiting for his next fare, and there on the floor of his car, was Tim's iphone.

One more forty minute cab ride and we were back aboard Malolo, crisis resolved, and ready for bed.  Isn't technology wonderful?


Today was fun, but less exciting.  We got an early start, sailed out to Las Tres Marietta's Islands at the entrance to Banderas Bay, and then headed offshore to do some fishing.  We didn't catch anything, but the humpback whales put on a great show for us and we had a pleasant sail.  We are now anchored for the night under Punta Mita, a headland at the north entrance of the bay.  This is a flat and uncrowded anchorage and we are looking forward to an uneventful evening. 


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Friday, November 2, 2018

St. Thomas

11/2 1200 position 18-20N 64-56W.  At anchor in St. Thomas Harbor, Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, US Virgin Islands

By my count the four of us consumed at least eighteen overstrength rum drinks at the Soggy Dollar and Foxy's on Josh Van Dyke.  It was a small miracle that nobody had a hangover the next morning.

After breakfast Andy and Lori went in to clear us out of the British Virgin Islands.  When they got back we motor sailed across the channel to St. John where we picked up a mooring and all had to go in to immigration to check in to the United States.  When the formalities were over we powered to adjacent Great St. James Island where we picked up a mooring in Christmas Cove.

Directly ashore from our mooring was the debris left from what was once a fifty foot Beneteau that washed ashore in one of last summer's hurricanes.  We swam in to check it out.  Such a shame to see a once proud yacht reduced to a pile of splintered fiberglass and aluminum.

I also learned the hard way what fire coral is while snorkeling later.  Apparently I brushed up against some while sticking my head in holes looking for lobster because my left wrist started stinging and got red and swollen.  We don't have fire coral in Hawaii.

This morning Arabella powered west for about an hour to St. Thomas.  We entered the harbor at Charlotte Amalie and went over to the Crown Bay Marina where we topped up our fuel and filled our water tanks.  We moved to the east end of St. Thomas Harbor where we anchored off of the cruise ship dock and super yacht marina.

This is the end of the line for Lori and me.  We depart Arabella tomorrow morning and will head across the island to a resort where we will enjoy our eighteenth honeymoon for a couple of days.  Andy and Patty's son, Raymond, arrives this afternoon and the family will cruise the Virgin Islands together next week.  

The Engles have been great hosts and great shipmates.  We will miss them and miss Arabella too!

On Monday Lori and I fly to Charleston to visit for a couple of days with my former Drydock engineering colleagues.  I haven't seen these characters since retiring seven years ago.  This should be fun.  




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